At the train station

Tuesday 17th Feb

Three cereal bars and a bag of celery is all I had time to grab as I left for the station – I’d ration it! All will be fine.

On the way: mist and pollution. It occurred to me that the mist is a bit like a white sandstorm but creepier. With pollution you’re facing an anonymous creepy opponent. A sand storm, however, hits you; it’s there, forceful and blatant whereas I feel with the mist it’s sneaky, edging and mysterious. A slap in the face with a sand filled gust is scary and powerful, it will sting; it’ll cause road accidents; it’ll infiltrate your home but the creeping mist of China that slips down your throat and into your pores is a whole other ball game; in a way far more ominous.

Not underestimating the havoc they can wreak, I loved sand storms, always thought it was like the desert reasserting herself. Telling us who is boss. But there’s something quite sad about a poison mist created entirely by ourselves… Anyway, I digress and don’t worry, I have a mask to wear for cycling to school. The pollution won’t get me. My mask is great, I look like Darth Vader’s stunted, pale sister, equally as skilled with a light saber when not tripping over the cloak they don’t make in ‘short’.

So, again, part of me didn’t want a taxi journey to end. It would mean me having to deal with the station, the craziness and the standing train. Still, being Darth Vader’s little sister means that I have a certain rep to protect, one of bravery and strength so forth.

I stood, wary, in what appeared to be a fairly orderly queue wondering what the stampede would be like when the guards opened the train ticket check. I have my battle tactics in mind and some previous experience in making my point: when a lady at the ticket counter tried to push in front of me, I span my suitcase round so that it landed on her foot. One brief glance at my face was enough to tell her that I was not playing!

At this stage, having purchased two tickets already (I bought the wrong one on my futile trip yesterday but it’s a story I’ve little energy to tell), I have now to settle with myself (haha, spell check just changed that to mulls elf) that my journey yesterday was a ridiculous waste of time! However, my biggest disappointment comes shortly after the afore mentioned battle plan formulation session. I survived the crush, got to the front and low and behold I became the problem. My ticket wouldn’t go through. I had to follow a violently extended finger to the scary looking moss green clad guard, erect and serious: frickin’ scary. He pointed out that the date on my ticket was wrong and basically, despite the tears threatening to cascade; despite the desperate telepathic pleading; despite the hope that if he could only read my face and eyes enough to communicate the peril I was currently facing, he offered no immediate solution.

Well, it would seem, the eyes, on this occasion, did not have it and General Stiff as I have now called him – I’m sure he was trying to be nice – could do nothing for me. I was to don my ruscac, drag my little black case and lump the gift-stacked shoulder bag back to counter number 89 where, if I was lucky, and while my intended train chugged out of the station, I may be able to exchange my ticket for another.

One row with the station master (not fun); one realisation that I can’t actually leave the train station for four hours and one fact that I have already seen more than my fair share of people picking their noses later, I find myself in Costa Coffee counting my blessings that I asked to share a table with the neon clad bespectacled teenager reading manga as she left not long after my arrival and I was able – before the crowd descended, to switch the chairs so mine had arms. I have a Chinese green tea before me and a slice of carrot cake waiting and regardless of what the little green bits are, I will eat it. The icing is as tasteless as Costa at home, a strangely comforting phenomena. With four hours to kill, I thought I might try to find a corner to sleep in. Wouldn’t cinemas in train stations be a good idea?

A man came and sat opposite me and made a million phone calls. I kept my eyes shut but every now and then I would peep through half open eyes to see his huge gold ring clad fingers facing me. I swear every phone call he made, he swapped a ring.

Hours later, having nursed the same green tea and proud of myself that I had resourcefully produced some Chinese phrase cards, I stood there concentrating very hard on generating an impenetrable force field to protect me from hair flicking, barging, the flicking of other things…bluuurgh, it suddenly occurred or me that if I could have anything right now, anything at all, it would be a toffee mint humbug – maybe two.

Happily, I had a window seat next to a twiggish adolescent so enjoyed the prospect of a sunset train journey in a fairly spacious environment – this could even turn out well… Helpfully, while on the train, I was receiving text messages from a colleague who kindly informed me that my destination also boasts the largest leper colony in China. It is however, ‘quite pretty. Apparently.’ Excellent!

Published by She went to Shanghai

While they started as diaries, they have become a little book of memories for me to keep. I leave Shanghai this summer and I hope my reflections, as rudimentary as they may be, will remind me of the little things.

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